Pisco Sour: Lima's Liquid Gold
Welcome to Lima, the heart of Peru's cocktail scene, where the national treasure, the Pisco Sour, reigns supreme. There's something truly magical about this cocktail, with its smooth texture, zesty punch of lime, rich flavor of pisco, and foam that can be compared to the crema on a well-pulled espresso shot.
Pisco: Peru's Pride
Before we dive into the cocktail itself, let's talk about the star of the show, Pisco. Pisco is a type of brandy made by distilling fermented grape juice into a high-proof spirit. Produced in specific regions of Peru and Chile, Pisco holds a Denomination of Origin, ensuring the adherence to strict production rules. In Peru, Pisco is made in coastal valley regions like Ica, Lima, Arequipa, Moquegua, and Tacna.
The grapes, mostly non-aromatic varieties, are harvested, pressed, and fermented before undergoing a single distillation in traditional copper pot stills, akin to cognac production. Pisco must not be aged in wood but rather rest for a minimum of three months in nonreactive containers, such as stainless steel or glass, or traditionally, in elongated clay pitchers known as botijas.
Pisco must not only be single-distilled; it must also be distilled to proof, which means producers can't add water after distillation, which is standard for other spirits.
Despite these strict rules, the variety and depth of flavor found in different Piscos are truly remarkable (and delicious).
“In the beginning, God created the heavens and the earth. But after such hard work, he was thirsty. And thus could think of nothing better than to create the grape and, from its fruit, make a fine spirit. He called it PISCO. And he saw that it was good. And it became the elixir of other gods. Later, he continued to entertain himself creating the animals, plants and the rest of the world.”
Shaken, Not Stirred: The History of Pisco Sour
This delightfully frothy cocktail is said to have been born in the early 20th century, the brainchild of an American bartender named Victor Vaughen Morris. Morris, who had made Lima his home, opened Morris' Bar in the city's historic center. This bar soon became a hotspot for the English-speaking elite, and it was here that the Pisco Sour was born. It was a twist on the classic Whiskey Sour, where Morris substituted whiskey for Pisco.
Just like a good cocktail, a good story gets better with age. Over the years, the Pisco Sour has become a symbol of Peruvian culture, celebrated every year on the first Saturday of February as Pisco Sour Day.
Mastering the Mix: Crafting a Pisco Sour
If you want to try your hand at mixing a Pisco Sour, here's how to do it: Start with 3 parts Pisco, 1 part simple syrup, 1 part freshly squeezed lime juice (preferably small key limes if you can find them), and a large egg white for the signature foam. Pour everything into a cocktail shaker, give it a good dry shake (without ice) to emulsify the egg white, then add ice and shake again (for extra points, strain out the ice and dry shake again). Strain it into a glass, and finish with a few drops of Angostura bitters. Voilà! You've just made a classic Pisco Sour.
Embarking on the Ultimate Pisco Sour Tour in Lima
A Pisco Sour tour in Lima is like a journey through time and taste, each stop offering its own unique spin on the classic cocktail. Here are some standout spots, each playing a critical role in Lima's Pisco Sour narrative:
Historic Spots
Gran Hotel Bolivar - The Gran Hotel Bolivar was the stage where the Pisco Sour danced its way into the hearts of visiting international celebrities and dignitaries during the mid-20th century, and a step into the Gran Hotel Bolivar is like stepping back into Lima's glamorous past. This historic hotel in downtown Lima is famed for its Pisco Sour, served in large glass goblets affectionately called 'Catedrales'. It's not just a cocktail here; it's a piece of history.
Bar Ingles - Tucked inside Lima's Country Club Hotel, the Bar Ingles exudes an old-world charm, making it the perfect setting to enjoy a well-crafted Pisco Sour. Their bartenders, known for their meticulous attention to detail, consistently churn out flawless cocktails, earning them a loyal following among both locals and tourists.
La Picantería - This Surquillo district favorite is known for its traditional style, where diners share tables and can watch their food being prepared. Their Pisco Sours are as authentic and no-nonsense as their food. This is where you fill your belly for the long crawl ahead.
Miraflores
Huaringas Bar - If you're looking to explore beyond the classic Pisco Sour, Huaringas Bar in the trendy Miraflores district should be on your itinerary. Known for its extensive Pisco menu, Huaringas offers a variety of Pisco Sours, including innovative versions infused with native Peruvian fruits like lucuma and passionfruit.
Tragaluz - Award-winning bartender Fiorella Larrea will gladly make you a traditional Pisco Sours, as long as you agree to try a second - with her creative twist. Fio utilizes non-traditional cocktail ingredients to find new flavors, each sip is an adventure.
Barranco
Juanito Barranco - One of Lima's iconic bars! For over 70 years, Juanito Barranco (named for its iconoclast founder, Don Juanito Casusol) has been serving up traditional Pisco Sours alongside delicious bar food. Don Juanito has passed, but his legacy lives on with his sons and grandson, as well as the regulars who make this spot feel like home. Make sure you try their huancaína potatoes or a sandwich to soak up the Pisco.
Hotel B Bar - A chic establishment in Barranco, Hotel B Bar serves a refined Pisco Sour that's as delightful to the eyes as it is to the palate. Here, your Pisco Sour comes with a side of art and elegance, making it a great spot to unwind after a day of exploring the city's vibrant arts scene.
Bodega Piselli - Nestled in the heart of the bohemian Barranco district, Bodega Piselli is a traditional tavern exuding warmth and authenticity. It's famous for its delicious Pisco sours made with their own "Pisco de la casa." Sip yours surrounded by laughter and chatter, the air filled with notes of live Criollo music — it's an experience that's quintessentially Peruvian.
Isolina - Based out of a charming historical mansion in bohemian Barranco, Isolina is known for its authentic Peruvian comfort cuisine as well as its expertly crafted Pisco Sours. This is another important stop for food; I suggest the Butifarra sandwich.
Ayahuasca Resto Bar - Housed in a 19th-century mansion in the Barranco district, Ayahuasca is not just a bar; it's a visual treat. The interiors are a riot of colors and patterns, which makes sipping a Pisco Sour here quite an experience. They also offer a variety of Pisco infusions with Amazonian fruits.
Cala - Situated along the Costa Verde, Cala offers great cocktails with an even better view. Their Pisco Sour, enjoyed alongside the panoramic view of the Pacific Ocean, is simply unforgettable.
From the elegant to the authentic, from the historic to the innovative, each of these places adds a unique note to Lima's Pisco Sour symphony. To be honest, it took me three wonderful days to get through this tour. Each stop included many stories, laughs, bites to eat, and definitely more than one cocktail.
Part of the beauty of Lima is in its variety and vibrancy, each establishment, whether it's a swanky hotel bar or a neighborhood tavern, offers a unique window into the city's love affair with Pisco Sour. Remember, it's more than just a cocktail; it's a symbol of Peruvian pride and a liquid love letter to the city's vibrant culture. So here's to Lima, to Pisco Sour, and to unforgettable experiences. Salud!